Strobist: Lighting 101
Good set of articles over at Strobist.com with regards to off camera flash use and lighting…
Been having fun with the 430EX I picked up for the wedding shoot just over a week from now… been learning a lot as well! The image above I actually used the pivot features on the Speedlight and bounce it off the wall slightly up and pretty much right behind me… definitely makes a difference over the on-camera and straight on flash.
Tags: 430ex, bounce, external, flash, light, lighting, photography, Portrait, self-portrait, strobist, Tips, Tutorials
Tilt-shift miniatures
I’d seen them on occasion, but recently looked into how to actually fake a tilt-shift.
In case you are wondering, Wikipedia defines tilt-shift as:
Tilt-shift photography is an artistic technique where the lens is tilted and shifted relative to the attached camera.
On a view camera, the lens and camera are connected by a bellows. When tilt is applied, the film or image sensor is not at a right angle to the optical axis of the lens, causing a gradient of focus. The technique can also be done with a modern camera by constructing a tilted lens manually.
On the other hand, tilt-shift miniature faking (according to Wikipedia):
…is a process in which a photograph of a life-size location or object is manipulated so that it looks like a photograph of a miniature scale model. By distorting the focus of the photo, the artist simulates the shallow depth of field normally encountered with macro lenses making the scene seem much smaller than it actually is. Many miniature faked photographs are taken from a high angle to further simulate the effect of looking down on a miniature.
It’s pretty easy to do, just check out this tutorial… I use it loosely, and usually add a vignette on most as well to help draw in the focus. Happy miniaturizing!
Tags: fake, miniature, photoshop, tilt-shift, Tips, Tutorials
Tone-mapping: Single RAW vs 7 exposures generated from single RAW
Had a few people inquiring after reading my blog post about HDR if I’d tried tone-mapping from a single RAW file. So here’s the result… the top image is tone-mapped from a single RAW file using Photomatix, the bottom image is tone-mapped from an HDR file generated from my 7 exposure from a single RAW method that I described in my blog post.
There are noticeable differences, the 7 exposure version definitely still gives a wider range of detail, it’s especially noticeable behind the pipe on the far right… I found it interesting that there was a slight color variation as well. I’ve uploaded this larger than I usually do to give you a better chance to see some of the differences.
Anyways… just thought I’d test it out and fill you all in!
Tags: hdr, jpg, photomatix, RAW, Tips, Tutorials
HDR : Battle Royale!
NOTE: Clicking on the images in this post will open them larger in a new window.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
HDR, or High Dynamic Range Imaging seems to be all the rage these days. HDRI is described as:
In image processing, computer graphics and photography, high dynamic range imaging (HDRI) is a set of techniques that allows a greater dynamic range of exposures (the range of values between light and dark areas) than normal digital imaging techniques. The intention of HDRI is to accurately represent the wide range of intensity levels found in real scenes ranging from direct sunlight to shadows.
More accurately however, the images that are commonly seen and referred to as HDR or HDRI images are tone-mapped.
Tone mapping is a technique used in image processing and computer graphics to map a set of colours to another; often to approximate the appearance of high dynamic range images in media with a more limited dynamic range. Print-outs, CRT or LCD monitors, and projectors all have a limited dynamic range which is inadequate to reproduce the full range of light intensities present in natural scenes. Essentially, tone mapping addresses the problem of strong contrast reduction from the scene values (radiance) to the displayable range while preserving the image details and color appearance important to appreciate the original scene content.
Definitions and technicalities aside, I decided to look into HDR and tone mapping a bit closer to see if there really was a difference between different processes. I was curious to see if there was noticeable differences between generating HDR/tone-mapped shots from a single RAW, multiple RAWs, multiple JPGs from the camera, and multiple JPGs generated from a single RAW. For the purposes of the rest of this post, I will be referring to my final images as HDR images (even though we all now know that’s not exactly correct).
Here is the original, straight out of the camera image shot with my Canon Digital Rebel XT/350D.
Honestly, not a bad image for SOOC! Anyways, the recommended way to produce HDR is to take multiple exposures using your camera’s Auto Exposure Bracketting (AEB) setting. I’m not going to get into the details on this, I’m merely posting my comparison results here.
Tags: bikers, bmw, car, comparison, hdr, hdri, hood, motorcycle, motorcycles, photomatix, photoshop, redynamix, reflection, test, tone mapped, tone mapping, tutorial
Sensor Cleaning!
“Share your knowledge. It’s a way to achieve immortality.”
Quote complements of the Dalai Lama, so here you go - sharing my knowledge!
Was going through some photos and noticed a few spots in them, all in the same location. So I tried some test shots using this Monitor Test Shot and adjusting the levels in Photoshop with different lenses and had the same result - sensor dust.
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Next I did some searches and viewed some contacts streams who had cleaned their sensors before and came to one conclusion. Copper Hill Images. I read through the tutorial and checked out a few other links, and came to the same conclusion that some of my other contacts had come to as well - there is nothing wrong with cleaning your own sensor as long as you are careful - just like anything else. Working with computers for the past 10 years or so, I’m comfortable with electronics so maybe that’s a plus.
On page 1 of the tutorial, I was pleased to read this:
There is a bit of hysteria about how dangerous canned air is but it actually isn’t if you follow these guidelines:
- The only time to use canned air is when a bulb blower cannot dislodge a big particle.
- Don’t shake the can beforehand; there’s nothing to “mix.
- When spraying with it, keep it perfectly upright and move the object you’re blowing NOT the can.
- Always let a little air out before spraying an optic. Propellant has a tendency to build up towards the valve and will come right out if the can has been sitting for a while
- Don’t let the jet-straw get any closer to the sensor than 1″ or 1½” or just inside the lens mount.
- Use very short bursts, no more than a one second shot; “freezing” will only occur when you use a prolonged stream of air.
Using these guidelines, we have never had any problems with canned air. If by some chance the canned air cannot remove the dastardly stuck-on specks, try ignoring them for a day or two, in many cases, they will pop off on their own. If you can determine that the speck is a dust mote and NOT a big particle of debris or grit which canned air should be able to remove, then it should be safe to proceed with a wet cleaning. If it definitely is an unmovable piece of grit or you’re not sure what to do, then, by all means, send it to the manufacturer for cleaning.
Following those directions to the letter, I proceeded with an initial cleaning and you can see the results above after the first cleaning. I had removed three of the offending particles with success! Another quick blast directed at the spot of the last remaining large particle, and another test shot confirmed it was gone as well. The sensor still shows some dust spots but it’s nothing of consequence in my opinion, it was more the large three that I was after…
So, be careful, use a clean environment and follow those tips and you shouldn’t have a problem with cleaning your sensor. The Copper Hill Images tutorial is very detailed, and takes you through a four step process, fortunately I’m satisfied my sensor is clean enough without having to go so far as using sensor wipes and fluid.
Tags: copper hill images, dalai lama, DIY, quote, sensor cleaning, tip, tutorial
60 Photography Links You Can’t Live Without
Great list of photography links - help sites, blogs, etc. I recognize a few, nice to see Digital Photography School and Thomas Hawk getting props, going to have to check out a few others, already snagged the flickrRSS Wordpress plugin for the site.
Be sure to check out all 60 Photography Links You Can’t Live Without over at CameraPorn!
Tags: cameraporn, digital photography school, DPS, flickrrss, links, plugin, thomas hawk, wordpress
Running 35mm through a 50’s Kodak Brownie Hawkeye
Over on Flickr, lslphoto has managed to feed 35mm film into an old Brownie Hawkeye box camera.
Yes it works! I have Walgreen’s process my film into negatives (no prints) for $2.29 and then I can scan the abnormal width and length of the entire filmed print with my new Epson Perfection V500 photo and negative scanner.
I think I’m going to have to try this out!
Running 35mm through a 50’s Kodak Brownie Hawkeye
Originally uploaded by lslphoto
Tags: 35mm film, box camera, DIY, do it yourself, kodak hawkeye brownie, lslphoto, tutorial
Curvy Cross Processing in Photoshop CS3
This tutorial describes one of my favorite techniques for ’spicing’ up a photograph. This method is adapted from the color darkroom of old. In those days, innovative photographers often processed film in a chemical solution intended for another type of film. For instance, they might process color slide film in C-41 chemicals. The result yielded a most unusual shift in color, which created a very retro look. To recreate this technique using the computer is both easy and fun.
Check out the tutorial over at Layers Magazine!
Tags: cross processing, curves, photoshop
DIY Flash and Lighting Hacks for Digital Photographers
Lighting is always a big thing, and if you’re on a limited budget it can be frustrating at time. There’s a great article over at DPS on DIY Flash and Lighting Hacks.
Tags: DPS, flash, hacks, lighting, Tips, Tutorials
19 New Year’s Photo Resolutions…
Came across a pretty cool article over at Photojojo! Here’s the rundown of the 19 resolutions:
Get Schooled
- Take a class
- Self-guided study
- Learn by studying the greats
Practice, Practice, Practice
- Start Project 365
- Shoot the most challenging subject: Yourself
- Take a photo a week of the things you’re grateful for
- Focus on the colors
- Take your camera everywhere
Try something new
- Make your own fish-eye lens
- Experiment in unfocus
- Travel
- Take photos of things that make you afraid
Be a copycat
- Stage a photograph
- Capture the paranormal
Print!
- Make your own photo journal
- Turn a photo into a coloring book
- Print two photos as one
- Create the most romantic photo gift ever
And number 19, the most important - BACK IT UP. FOR REAL.
Anyways, I’ve already undertaken a few of these, looking forward to checking out some of the other suggestions. Read the expanded version and more detailed information over at Photojojo!












