Finally got around to finishing and uploading my first public Blurb book. This one features photos I took at the 2009 Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada this past summer. The book contains over 150 images including performers, audience, artwork and from the play Wedding Ruiner. (more…)
I recently sought out an industry sports photographer to review my work and ended up contacting a local photographer who shoots for the Canadian Press. I was impressed first off that he replied to my request for critique, and spent some time gathering what I thought were my 15 best sports shots today. He replied the following day and out of those 15, only 2 made the cut and a third would make the cut with a crop.
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Thought I’d start something new, I’m going to call it Twitter Tuesday. What is Twitter Tuesday you ask? Twitter Tuesday will be a post of my favorite tweets over the previous 7 days. A few reasons for this – first, it will force me to go through my favorite tweets and only keep the ones I really like favorited. Second, I can share them all with the rest of you! Third, it will give me something to blog about on Tuesdays, and last… it’ll be a back up of sorts of my favorite tweets!
Welcome to the first Twitter Tuesday!
Actions & Presets
Business
Information
Tips
Photos
Tutorials
Tutorial Videos
It was interesting looking at this “compact” list and reviewing it – one can tell who I really pay attention to on Twitter!
First off, for those of you who were expecting this – sorry for the delay, had a wedding and family photo shoot on the weekend.
I’m not going to go into what HDR is or isn’t, last year I posted an article called HDR: Battle Royale which describes what HDR is as well as a comparing the use of multiple or single images to generate tone-mapped HDR images. A few things before we get started – this is a step by step of my process in which I use a single RAW file to create a tone-mapped HDR image. This is not a tutorial on using Lightroom, Photomatix or Photoshop – but it should provide clear enough instructions to follow the steps that I took. Shortcuts will be PC format shortcuts (sorry Mac users!). Finally, the larger images can be clicked on to view a larger version. Keep in mind as well, I’m no expert but this process works for me – if you are an “expert” and have suggestions, feel free to let me know in the comments section at the end of this post!
Without further ado, my step by step process on creating a tone-mapped HDR image from a single RAW file.
First, I open the RAW file in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. Depending on the image, I may or may not make some minor adjustments like correcting the white balance or auto toning.
Open RAW (.CR2 .NEF .DNG) file in Lightroom
The second step will be to create our base exposure photo. To do this, export your image from Lightroom using the Export (CTRL+SHIFT+E) function. It is important to export your image at 100 Quality. At this point, you can export as JPEG, 8-bit TIFF or 16-bit TIFF. I use JPEG using the sRGB colorspace because most of what I do ends up only being on the Internet and at the end of the day, we’re going to end up with an 8-bit JPEG file anyways.
Lightroom export image options
The next step is to create the bracketed “exposures” that we require. To do this, adjust the Exposure slider until the number on the right reads 1. You can also type 1 in the box and hit enter which will adjust it as well.
User exposure slider to adjust image exposure
You will notice the image will appear lighter. Repeat the export steps as we used for the base exposure. Lightroom will ask if you want to overwrite the existing photo, select the option that says to Use Unique Names. After the image has been exported, adjust the exposure slider for the values of 2, 3, -1, -2, and -3. After you have adjusted the exposure and exported the seven (7) images we will be using, you can close Lightroom.
Next, we will open up Photomatix to create the HDR image and apply the tone-mapping. On the main window, click the Generate HDR image button.
Main Photomatix menu
A new window will open which will allow you to select the images you want to use. Select the 7 images we created from Lightroom, and click on the Open button.
Open images into Photomatix
Exposure values settings
Next you will see a dialog box with some HDR generation options. Because I use a single raw, I don’t need to worry about any of these. If you have bracketed images, I suggest you check Align source images for sure and Attempt to reduce ghosting artifacts if you have trees, water or people in the scene. Click OK again.
Generate HDR options
Now we wait!
HDR Generation
And wait… until we get a beautiful looking image like you see below. This is the HDR exposure blended image, but unfortunately our monitors can’t display true HDR at the present. Click the Tone Mapping button on the left hand side.
HDR image
Voilà ! We have a much better looking tone-mapped image.
Initial tone-mapped image
Photomatix keeps the last used settings so usually I start with those and adjust as needed for the current photo. Most of my images use very similar settings, but I’ll still play around with the sliders to see if I can improve it at all. The great thing about this is if you go on a trip and have a number of similar images, you can run them through Photomatix very quickly. Buildings should have similar settings, vehicles should have another similar set of settings and so forth. You can even save the settings if you want – something I haven’t done but should I suppose.
There are two ways to tone map an image in Photomatix – Details Enhancer or Tone Compressor. I personally use Details Enhancer, I tried using Tone Compressor a couple times but never got the hang of it. Here are the four tabs of the Details Enhancer (click the image for more detail):
Details Enhancer tabs
If you are new to Photomatix I suggest you play with the sliders one at a time to get a feel for what they do. The best way is to start at the top and make a note of the default setting then slide the slider all the way to the left, note the results, then slide it all the way to the right and note the new results. Then you can slide it until you get the desired effect. Here’s a brief overview of what each slider does:
Main tab
Strength: this sets how strong the tone-mapped effect is – 100 is max, 0 is none
Color Saturation: adjusts color saturation – 100 is strong, 0 is black and white
Light Smoothing: higher value brightens shadows and increases local contrast
Luminosity: controls smoothing of contrast variations across the image – very high is more realistic (imo), very low is grittier
Tone tab
White Point: increases the global contrast for lighter areas of the image – 5% is highest, 0% is none
Black Point: increases the global contrast for darker areas of the image – 5% is highest, 0% is none
Gamma: adjusts the mid-tones of the image, lightening or darkening the image globally – 0.35 is lightest, 2.00 is darkest
Color tab
Temperature: adjusts the overall color temperature – 10 is warmer (reddish), -10 is cooler (bluer)
Saturation Highlights:Â adjusts color temperature of highlights – 10 is warmer (reddish), -10 is cooler (bluer)
Saturation Shadows: adjusts color temperature of shadows – 10 is warmer (reddish), -10 is cooler (bluer)
Micro tab
Micro-contrast: sets the level of emphasis on details – 10 is stronger detail, -10 is minimal if any detail
Micro-smoothing: smooths out some of the details for example reducing low level noise in the sky – 30 is very smooth, 0 is no smoothing
S/H tab
Highlights Smoothing: weakens or strengthens the highlights – 100 is stronger, 0 is weaker. Note: this slider only seems to make a difference in the higher range past 60 (or more).
Shadows Smoothing: weakens or strengthens the shadows – 100 is stronger, 0 is weaker. Note: this slider only seems to make a difference in the higher range past 60 (or more).
Shadows Clipping: adjusts shadow clipping – 100 is the most clipping (less detail in shadows, will look almost black), 0 is none (more detail in shadows)
(NOTE: the latest version of Photomatix has combined the 4 tabs as I have shown them into one long menu now but the same setting adjustment sliders are there).
After you have adjusted the sliders, click the Process button… now we wait again. And wait… while Photomatix tone maps our image using the Details Enhancer.
Processing tone mapping
After Photomatix has processed the image using Tone Mapping, you’ll see a relatively ready image:
Tone-mapped image in Photomatix
Select File… and Save… the image – it will save in the same format you were using, JPEG or TIFF. Close Photomatix and then open the image in Photoshop.
Tone-mapped image in Photoshop
I run a few minor adjustments in Photoshop. One action that I run on almost EVERY image I process, HDR or not, is the wonderful Boost action available from Pioneer Woman. You can get it (and a few others) from the Pioneer Woman website. The boost action adds a “pop†in contrast and color, without overpowering the image.
Tone mapped image after Boost action
I then usually adjust the opacity of the Boost group to around 50% – but depending on the image this can range anywhere from 25-100%.
Adjust Boost to 50%
Next, I run a neat little trick I learned from Gareth over at The Celtic Camera Photography – sharpening using the High Pass filter in Photoshop. I used to use the unsharpen mask but no more – you’ll see why in a minute! Make sure your Background layer is selected, then (on the PC) hit CTRL+J to make a new layer.
Create a new layer
Next select Filter from the Photoshop menu, then Other… and High Pass. You’ll get a screen like you see below. You’ll notice that it appears to outline the image. Adjust the Radius between 3 and 6 pixels until you get the desired outlining and click OK.
High Pass Filter in effect
After applying the High Pass Filter we need to change the Layer mode to Hard Light. This will basically keep the outlined portions of the High Pass Filtered layer intact and allow the original image to show through.
Set High Pass layer to Hard Light
We’re done! Well, almost. This is how the image looks after setting the High Pass layer mode to Hard Light.
Tone-mapped image with Boost and High Pass Filter applied
Finally! All that remains is to export the image as an 8-bit JPEG and upload it to your favorite photo sharing site! If you used 16-bit TIFFs, you’ll have to convert the RGB colorspace to 8-bit before you can export, but if you use TIFFs I’m sure you already knew that!
Canada Place Final HDR/tone-mapped Image
I know there’s a ton of HDR tutorials out there, I’m certain this one is almost identical to a lot of them. But because I had a few inquiries as to how I processed the Canada Place image I took I thought I’d whip one up. I hope you enjoyed, and feel somewhat enlightened!
Wow what a busy week! I’ve spent the past week slowly editing pictures from last weekends Worldwide Photo Walk and I’ve ended up with around 100 or so. I must say, I sure do miss that fisheye lens! I’m also preparing an HDR tutorial based on my Canada Place HDR shot that I took and processed from the photo walk. Fear not, it’s coming!
This weekend will be just as busy, shooting a country wedding tomorrow – going to be hot though, the forecast high is 32C! On Sunday I’ll be doing up some family pictures for a local MMA (mixed martial arts) fighter and (hopefully) in September I’ll be shooting his fight at TFC 8 at the Shaw Conference Centre here in town.
I found out today that one of my shots from the Photo Walk (image above when viewing full post) was featured over on Paul Stamatiou’s blog in an article title How To: HDR Photography Basics (Part 1). Thanks Paul, glad you liked it enough to use it.
Next up, I’m also featured over at Kimberly Rose’s My Alternate Reality blog. She emailed me some questions which I responded to and posted with some of my images from the past year or so. As well, if you comment on her post a random winner will receive their choice of an 8×10 or 8×12 print from my site or Flickr stream. Go check out the article and comment for the giveaway!
And with that, I leave you with a pooch I shot on the Photo Walk.
Pooch in B&W HDR shot with a fisheye lens
I hadn’t realized when I set out to write this tilt-shift post that I’d written one almost exactly a year ago! I’ve always loved the Tilt-Shift Miniature look, and lately have come across some excellent Tilt-Shift videos.
Here’s a couple links to check out:
If only Tilt-shift lenses weren’t so expensive… /sigh. Be sure to check out this tutorial as well on how to fake tilt-shift in Photoshop.
I’ve been following the blogs and forums over at DPS for a couple years now – it’s definitely a GREAT resource for photographers. I think the one thing I love the most about DPS (aside from the friendly and helpful nature of all the people over there) is the fact that they are always trying to keep photographers motivated and give the readers more ideas to attempt. I love the idea of the latest challenge.
Over the next few days set yourself this little challenge.
- Choose a single focal length. If you have a prime lens use it – if you don’t choose a zoom lens and commit to only using it at one end of its range.
- Photograph 10 people – with each person only take a single shot.
- Share your 10 shots with us. The easiest way is probably to upload your 10 shots to a Flickr account (or some other photo sharing site) and then group them all together into one group – share the link to that group in comments below.
Read the full challenge over at DPS!
Although I love to set my own processes, you can’t argue with a process someone else has set up that already does what you want. Hence my love for Photoshop Actions.
I came across a link today over at DesignM.ag for 20+ Photoshop Actions for Photo Editing; a couple more links within the article lead to another 60 Photoshop Actions for Photo Touch-Ups and Enhancements and another 30 Photoshop Actions for Touch Ups and Enhancements – Part 2.
Looks like some good actions in there, I’ll be sure to check some of them out!
Congrats to DPS on 3 years and 1000 (and counting) articles. Darren and the admin team over there have done a great job on the site and I know I’ve certainly learned a thing or two over the past year and a half.
Here’s the top 10 DPS posts based on viewers:
1. 10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits
2. Long Exposure Photography: 15 Stunning Examples
3. How to Make Digital Photos Look Like Lomo Photography
4. 15 Stunning Images Using Blur to Portray Movement
5. 4 Easy Photoshop Techniques to Make Your Pictures Pop!
6. How to Make an Inexpensive Light Tent
7. How to Photograph Fireworks
8. Rule of Thirds
9. 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips
10. Wedding Photography – 21 Tips for Amateur Wedding Photographers
Be sure to hit the See the Top 10 Articles from our First 1000 at Digital Photography School article over at DPS. Keep the great articles, tips, tricks, contests and everything else coming!
Every year most people I know – myself included – make those ever so useful New Year’s Resolutions. I think I’ve only ever followed through with one or two in my life!
Photojojo has a great little article titled 22 Photo New Year’s Resolutions for 2009. There’s quite a few good ones:
Get Organized
1. Weed out the chaff
2. Clean up your act
3. Back up!Show Off
4. Put more photos up
5. Make a book
6. Enter some contests
7. Share your pictures onlineTry Something New
8. Use a new technique
9. Switch teams
10. Borrow some new gear
11. Get a different perspectiveDo Some Good
12. Donate your old gear
13. Volunteer your talents
14. Teach somebody what you knowChallenge Yourself
15. Go on assignment
16. Do something difficult
17. Brush up on your historyStart a Project
18. Start a year-long project
19. Pick a new project every month
20. Start a new tradition
21. Make a time capsuleTake your camera everywhere
22. Take your camera everywhere
My biggest thing that I need to do is to get organized and get things up and running including revamping this site and setting up a portfolio/sales site. I’m going to be ambitious and see how many of these I can hit this year. I think my first “year long project” will be the new 100 Possibilities Project on Flickr – 100 photos of the same item. It can’t be that hard to take 100 different photos of a laptop can it?
I’ll keep you all posted on the rest!
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