HDR : Battle Royale!

NOTE: Clicking on the images in this post will open them larger in a new window.

High Dynamic Range Imaging

HDR, or High Dynamic Range Imaging seems to be all the rage these days. HDRI is described as:

In image processing, computer graphics and photography, high dynamic range imaging (HDRI) is a set of techniques that allows a greater dynamic range of exposures (the range of values between light and dark areas) than normal digital imaging techniques. The intention of HDRI is to accurately represent the wide range of intensity levels found in real scenes ranging from direct sunlight to shadows.

More accurately however, the images that are commonly seen and referred to as HDR or HDRI images are tone-mapped.

Tone mapping is a technique used in image processing and computer graphics to map a set of colours to another; often to approximate the appearance of high dynamic range images in media with a more limited dynamic range. Print-outs, CRT or LCD monitors, and projectors all have a limited dynamic range which is inadequate to reproduce the full range of light intensities present in natural scenes. Essentially, tone mapping addresses the problem of strong contrast reduction from the scene values (radiance) to the displayable range while preserving the image details and color appearance important to appreciate the original scene content.

Definitions and technicalities aside, I decided to look into HDR and tone mapping a bit closer to see if there really was a difference between different processes. I was curious to see if there was noticeable differences between generating HDR/tone-mapped shots from a single RAW, multiple RAWs, multiple JPGs from the camera, and multiple JPGs generated from a single RAW. For the purposes of the rest of this post, I will be referring to my final images as HDR images (even though we all now know that’s not exactly correct).

Here is the original, straight out of the camera image shot with my Canon Digital Rebel XT/350D.

Honestly, not a bad image for SOOC! Anyways, the recommended way to produce HDR is to take multiple exposures using your camera’s Auto Exposure Bracketting (AEB) setting. I’m not going to get into the details on this, I’m merely posting my comparison results here.

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Tags: bikers, bmw, car, comparison, hdr, hdri, hood, motorcycle, motorcycles, photomatix, photoshop, redynamix, reflection, test, tone mapped, tone mapping, tutorial

Sensor Cleaning!

“Share your knowledge. It’s a way to achieve immortality.”

Quote complements of the Dalai Lama, so here you go - sharing my knowledge!

Was going through some photos and noticed a few spots in them, all in the same location. So I tried some test shots using this Monitor Test Shot and adjusting the levels in Photoshop with different lenses and had the same result - sensor dust.

Next I did some searches and viewed some contacts streams who had cleaned their sensors before and came to one conclusion. Copper Hill Images. I read through the tutorial and checked out a few other links, and came to the same conclusion that some of my other contacts had come to as well - there is nothing wrong with cleaning your own sensor as long as you are careful - just like anything else. Working with computers for the past 10 years or so, I’m comfortable with electronics so maybe that’s a plus.

On page 1 of the tutorial, I was pleased to read this:

There is a bit of hysteria about how dangerous canned air is but it actually isn’t if you follow these guidelines:

• The only time to use canned air is when a bulb blower cannot dislodge a big particle.
• Don’t shake the can beforehand; there’s nothing to “mix.
• When spraying with it, keep it perfectly upright and move the object you’re blowing NOT the can.
• Always let a little air out before spraying an optic. Propellant has a tendency to build up towards the valve and will come right out if the can has been sitting for a while
• Don’t let the jet-straw get any closer to the sensor than 1″ or 1½” or just inside the lens mount.
• Use very short bursts, no more than a one second shot; “freezing” will only occur when you use a prolonged stream of air.

Using these guidelines, we have never had any problems with canned air. If by some chance the canned air cannot remove the dastardly stuck-on specks, try ignoring them for a day or two, in many cases, they will pop off on their own. If you can determine that the speck is a dust mote and NOT a big particle of debris or grit which canned air should be able to remove, then it should be safe to proceed with a wet cleaning. If it definitely is an unmovable piece of grit or you’re not sure what to do, then, by all means, send it to the manufacturer for cleaning.

Following those directions to the letter, I proceeded with an initial cleaning and you can see the results above after the first cleaning. I had removed three of the offending particles with success! Another quick blast directed at the spot of the last remaining large particle, and another test shot confirmed it was gone as well. The sensor still shows some dust spots but it’s nothing of consequence in my opinion, it was more the large three that I was after…

So, be careful, use a clean environment and follow those tips and you shouldn’t have a problem with cleaning your sensor. The Copper Hill Images tutorial is very detailed, and takes you through a four step process, fortunately I’m satisfied my sensor is clean enough without having to go so far as using sensor wipes and fluid.

Tags: copper hill images, dalai lama, DIY, quote, sensor cleaning, tip, tutorial

Running 35mm through a 50’s Kodak Brownie Hawkeye

Over on Flickr, lslphoto has managed to feed 35mm film into an old Brownie Hawkeye box camera.

Yes it works! I have Walgreen’s process my film into negatives (no prints) for $2.29 and then I can scan the abnormal width and length of the entire filmed print with my new Epson Perfection V500 photo and negative scanner.

I think I’m going to have to try this out!

Running 35mm through a 50’s Kodak Brownie Hawkeye
Originally uploaded by lslphoto

Tags: 35mm film, box camera, DIY, do it yourself, kodak hawkeye brownie, lslphoto, tutorial

21 Ways to Shoot Better Photographs

Checked out a cool article over at 10e20 called 21 Ways to Shoot Better Photographs. Some cool ideas over there… be sure to check out the full article!

Do you want to sharpen your creative picture taking instincts? Do you want to combine new ideas with your current projects and techniques? These techniques will be better executed with digital cameras and meant as some direction or guidelines to taking ‘better‘ pictures. You are your cameras best viewfinder!

1. Perspective
2. Unequal space
3. Framing
4. Horizon line
5. Cropping
6. Intentional empty space
7. Shape
8. Lines and curves
9. Visual texture
10. Depth
11. Spin
12. Motion shots
13. 360 panoramic
14. Composites
15. Beautiful decay
16. Clouds
17. Shadows/Reflections
18. Light painting
19. Light direction
20. Night shots
21. Intentional under/over exposing

Like I mentioned above, check out the full 21 Ways to Shoot Better Photographs article!

Tags: Tips, tutorial

How to Make An Inexpensive Light Tent

Another great article over at DPS today by Jeffrey Bail… definitely going to have to try this out!

If you’re like me, you don’t want to spend money if you can do it yourself and yield the same results. One day I was at my local photography store I saw one of these “Pop-Up” light tents. It consisted of a collapsible white fabric box with a hole in the front and 3 lights - used for photographing small objects in photographic studios (like the shot of the chocolate reindeer to the left).

Read “How to Make a Inexpensive Light Tent” over at DPS.

Tags: DIY, DPS, light tent, tutorial